We t ‘s the cardio of Poultry. Konya, a local out-of so many souls, squats slap in the center of Anatolia’s nuts ordinary, in the middle of open, limitless prairie. Turkey’s really culturally traditional area, Konya seems to start with getting an area from rigorous headscarves and foreboding beards, out-of ostentatiously observed pieties and forbidden beers. But uncovering Konya is straightforward – to possess here, in the centre of the dated area, in his tomb out-of turquoise tiles, is actually Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is one of the earth’s extremely realize poets. During his lives, and because his demise from inside the 1273, pilgrims came so you can Konya. Today, Rumi’s tomb is Turkey’s 2nd really-went to subscribers appeal following Topkapi Castle from inside the Istanbul. Rumi is actually a mystic, a great Sufi saint whom appreciated all the religions, and you can whoever very own religion was love. His supporters carry out (nonetheless create) beat by themselves for the hypnotic trance and you may moving, either rotating including passes for hours on end.
There clearly was a large, impressive the municipal auditorium in which that it tender whirling person ballet are did, and you can people level of charming shiny-eyed mystics into the carpet shop, cafes and you can gothic bazaars, all happier so you’re able to invite one a private zikhr
Such spinning dervishes are in reality the fresh symbol off Turkey’s tourist campaigns, and you can sip beverage on your Istanbul lodge lobby watching some terrible bloke inside the a taller beige considered cap whirling to possess the activity. Into real deal, no matter if, already been heree so you’re able to Konya while visited Turkey’s heart. From inside the Rumi’s conditions:
“Anybody who you happen to be, already been Even though you may be An infidel, a great pagan, or a good fireworshipper, already been Our brotherhood is not among depression However has busted The vows off repentance a hundred moments, come.”
Almost every seasons because the 1983, I have already been coming on two billion-or-very people which head to Konya annually. Some are Turkish, many Iranians (exactly who allege Rumi as their very own, just like the he published within their code and you will grew up in eastern Persia) and additionally make the pilgrimage.
As opposed to and come up with Konya a halt for the a shuttle journey, I would recommend becoming for most weeks, bathing in the feeling, dinner a few of Turkey’s finest lamb, seeing their greatest Seljuk tissues and you may – possibly – losing crazy about Rumi. You can travel for the cheaply away from Istanbul, that there is also a great scruffy, atmospheric show, or appear by-road. Konya is within effortless arrived at of your own cave dwellers and you may carpeting manufacturers out-of Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived right here given that a good boy, whenever Konya got already been a local for two,000 decades. It absolutely was dependent by the Hittites, who have been succeeded by the Phrygians, then the Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, brand new kings out of Pergamon as well as the Romans, just who called the set Iconium. Saints Paul and you may Barnabus both preached here, but because of the 1071 the brand new Seljuks, an effective Turcoman group, was in charge, as well as their architectural legacy endures.
The Karatay Medrese regarding 1251 was a work of art out-of elaborate tiling and you may unified domes. It’s now the fresh new Museum off Tiles and Ceramics, whoever articles take care of the vibrancy Tiraspol women for dating and marriage and punch that they had whenever first discharged. Nearby, the newest Ince Minarali Medrese happens to be the latest Art gallery out of Brick and you will Wood Carving, which can be a lot less lifeless than simply I’ve made it voice. Both of these houses whet urge for food to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, as well as the brilliant Sahip Ata mosque: instead of most of this new Muslim world, inside Chicken you are motivated to visit mosques, any sort of your own spiritual choice.
On junction of your old city and its particular unattractive the brand new neighbour ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, this new city’s vantage area, whoever stunning ebony pulpit and you will sensitive and painful prayer-niche are from 1155 (the fresh new cutting-edge are finished in 1221). New boulevard radiating from here provides that Rumi’s tomb, of which much more afterwards. Rumi is known to Turks as Mevlana (the new Sainted One), now Konya is in thrall so you can Mevlanamania.
While i very first appeared, Mevlana’s supporters, the new Mevlevi, were a banned organisation, tolerated just for its “folkloric dancing” and you may whirlings. Meetings took place privately, dishonestly.
I mentioned restaurants, too. Konya’s lamb-centric cooking is excellent. Etli ekmek is actually an extended, narrow move-right up pizza bequeath that have delicately spiced mince, and you may Konya kebab are a lamb shank, very slowly roasted and you may served into a pillow of money with a nice purple onion. The number one is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. Zero 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whose soup and you may selfmade natural yogurt was paradise-made.
Thus, fantastically provided, with of numerous glasses of nice tannic tea in you, build your treatment for Rumi’s tomb. Your get in on the awestruck, the curious plus the fervent. A mysterious twinkly light performs towards the tombs of Rumi and you will their followers. The fresh wall space are embroidered with calligraphy, in addition to ceilings was a great kaleidoscope from superbly executed arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is covered into the vastly embroidered content regarding silver, and you will appears to glow light and you may serenity and you will mercy.
Are typical went, to possess listed here is like
Some of your fellow pilgrims tend to read Korans, while some Rumi’s poetry. Extremely get photographs, while this is strictly forbidden. You will find people that cry silently, and people who make fun of aloud; people who reflect all day, and those who rush through.
To experience on the side and insinuating by itself into the understanding is the ney, an excellent reed flute. It sounds such as for example breathy heavens, but is really the sound away from fire, which goes up and falls into the us. This is simply not certain sullen spiritual whining, however the sound regarding wanting, out of communion, of the cardio. You’ve got it – it’s spirit musical, plus it extremely supplies you with. Therefore started.
Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies in order to Konya via Istanbul off Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you can Manchester, of ?219 rtn inc taxes. Istanbul to help you Konya because of the railway costs throughout ?24 get back, or around ?thirty-six get back by coach. Hotel Balikcilar enjoys room or just around ?70 (and also provides cooler beers). Hotel Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) room to ?20. Seats observe the whirling dervishes try clear of the fresh new tourist office, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum within SeleneTour (+90 532 564 9192, ) arranges personal spinning and zikhr from ?30pp.